ALPINE WALLS IN BULGARIA

• Document Type: CREST
• Collection: General CIA Records
• Document Number (FOIA) /ESDN (CREST): CIA-RDP81-01043R002000190001-4
• Release Decision: RIPPUB
• Original Classification: K
• Document Page Count: 308
• Document Creation Date: December 27, 2016
• Document Release Date: May 17, 2013
• Sequence Number: 1
• Publication Date: April 10, 1958
• Content Type: REPORT

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STAT
ALPINE WALLS III BtJI~GARIA
Al iyskite ~teni v b
Alpine ~~t~.1.s in Bulgaria ,
1956 - Sofia, Pates 3-263
The southern wtul of Elpn-in Peak
The eastern vall of Elenin Peak
Classical route
The northeastern state
The ~restern xall o~ Elen3n Peak
(3rlavets Peak
Z].3ya -Zub~:Peak
The south+rr~a, wall. of Z3.3ya Zub Peak
Tsanko Baaagl.ev
1
6
The l~zl'ovitsa ~aector of the Rita Mountains
1~
26
The L~estern King of the northern wa71 of
P~Ia7.' ovitaa Peak
29
The Ma1'ovitsa corridor
31
The eaaterr~. wing of the northern wa11 of
~fs1.'ovitsa Peak
31
The northeastern wal]. of Mal'ovitsa Peak --
Triugulnikut
33
The "IZaminite" variation
LTshite Peaks
Z+8
Elenin Peak
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The western arete o~ Zliya Zub Peak
The northern jrall oP Zliys, Zub Peak
The aoutheaatern wall of Z13ya Zub Peak
The Varnikut route
The Slavyansbiara route
Dvugl.av Peak
The Kaminite route
The Plochite route
The 9 Septemvri route
~''~.e Republican A~.pine Campetition II route
~e arete 'linking Zliya Zub and Dvuglav Peaks
b6
67
69
70
?7
a~.
$9
g6
99
1~
Data Peak
'`"`
The southern arete of Iglata Peak
The northern orate of Sglata Peak
Dyavolskite Igli Peaks
Kentilata Peak
Lovnitsa Peak
~-~'
3-~-~
~~
126
129
The eastern part o~ the northern ws.7.l o~
I,ovnitsa Peak
131
The western part o~ the northern wall oP
I,avnitsa Peak
132
The Kupenite Peaks
i3~
Khartuniyata Peak
~3~
1~3
TSE PIRIN MflU1~TAINS
Koncheto
1~9
Vikhren Peak
X52
Tne northern waL o~ Vikhren Peak (Kazanut)
153
The couloir
lg7
Triu '~ t
158
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The Kami~aata route
The-fiuiiyats aroute
Sinanitsa Peak
Momin Peak
At~cegdan
The northern part of the northzrestern wall of
Atmegdan Peak -- the Beshliyska vall
l63
169
171.
177
1$2
18g
186
The Naro~na A~i; s _xoute
The Stroitel route
The western part of the rorthwesttrn
Atmegdan Peak
Dziiengal Peak
Strazhite Peaks
THE 'Vl~i'OSHA MQtJNTAI{~
Momins Skala Peak
Ko~inite Peaks
Do].niyat (Golemiyat~ nom
The northern wing
Daarskiya route
- Southern ving
TsepY~zta route
~~I.kiyat Vinkel route
The arete route
The V33ils~elut route
~e traverse route
The gatvesut route
Gorniyat Ka~nin
Itezoyovete Peaks
The norfihhern ~'aL'I.
The arete
l89
X92
l96
20~+
208
~9
2]1
2ll
2L1
2l2
~3
~-3
~Cl~
2l~
215
21b
216
2l7
218
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'3~e southeastern wall.
THE aThRA PLATQ~1~ R~~.~45
222
Vrattsata
:226
~e Iskur Riper Pass
23~.
Rit? i,+,,e
232
The I.akatnishki r+oclss
X33
Ths D?skiya -mute
2~+1
The coLloir
2~2
Tfie overhangs
2$3
The ccxabinatirm rt-ute
2~
s`~e Zhultate Tsepka route
245
T~rulyal.~ut route
2~+5
The Faktor route
2~+6
The ideal arete route
2~6
The Shemir.~te route
2~7
The ~. x~ute
2~+$
The Svinskata Dugk.$. mute
2~i9
Thy aie~onal rourte
250
The Septe~ava~3. route
25Z
The Krustut route
252
The Triu~,zlaikut at the Bov railroa~3..statian
253
The Konya Stentz peak
258
ittnaenut Peak
259
Botev Peak
260
The P.esyskite racks
2~2
The northern .nom
~9
Th. eta Koh xa'.1
274
isS~et Pear
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The Yant~+. River Pass
The rocks above Preobrnzhenski Monastery
Zandanut
272
273
~'l~
The rocks around Dx`Yanavski Monastery
X75
Strazhata
biamini rocks
Smite- Kmmani site
276
276
279
C~.imbing sites
28l
281
Bryanov~rhtitsa rocks
282
Chervenata rock
The rocks along the Rtzsenski Lom River
282
~a3
Brezhsx~:i
28~
~1P'PENDTX
29~
BIBTitOGR
295
FIGt~ C~PTIQNS
~'t?ls?~RRD
Bu7,garia is a predominantly mountainous country. The history
and life of the Bulgarian people are closely linked with the country's
mountains. The boundless love of the Bulgarian people for their own
nat~.ve mountains and landscape gave rise to a mass interest in a kind
of hiking which is much like motmtaineering. Despite the fact that
most Bulgarian peaks a~ eerily accessible, their perpendicular ~.*alls,
the sns~r-rAVered con]-oirs, the ridges and aretes in the3.r upper regions,
etc., make conditions very favorable for an advance in Bulgariaa
a7.p3.nism.
The birth cf Bul.garit~. ai-p3~~ o~rea ~h, to the e~xpex~i-encr. oi'
~g~i~g ~ hilc~ng, and to the first ascents of the highest Bulgarian
peaks which were undertaken. The first Winter ascent of Musala (Stalin}
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Peak was undertaken in 1923 after hiking in Bulgaria h~zd.become an
organized activity. Two years later -- in the w.'~.nter of ?925 -- a
sim3ltm ascent of Eitege (Wikhren) Peak was attempted far the first
time. Tn connection with these ei`t'orts, research was begun and the
high portions of the Bul.gar3.an mountain ranges were explore.. It
became evident that better anzl more specialized equipment, as well as
amore profound knowled8e of various factors, was necessary before the
coaplete exploration of these matmtains could be carried out. Por
these remsons, the Bulgarian Mountain Club ~E~'K -- Bu~7.garski. planinski
klub~ was established in 1929. Later it became the BAK ~fulgarski.
alpiyski klub -- Bulgarian Alpine CIubJ. Alpine techniques are being
increasingly employed in our high Bulgarian mountains . As~ a result,
the first clitubs of the western wall and arete of Aialyovitsa Peak arid.
the marking of $ path acxoss the rocky state of 'the Rupite Mountains
and the "Ks.-.rstoviyat rub" (carat state} in the Perin Mountains Were
possible.
Alpine .techniques and, equipment were responsible for attempts
to ascend the following a'Lpine walls: the northern. wa7.1. of Eltepe
Peals, the northern acid southwestern walls of Zliya Zub Peak, the
rthwestern arete of I,glata Peak, and the northern xa11 of Orlovets
Peak. These technical improvements in Bulgarian alpinism also
resulted in the climbing of the northeastern wall of Mal'ovitsa
Peale, the ;cost difficult ascent ever made in Bulgaria, which was
undertaken in 1938-
.More recently, a reawakening of interest in aI-pinism has taken
place along with the overall upsurge of the country since the
establishment of the people's rtgfine in Bullgaxi.a? S~ithin a short.
period of time, the ascent of most of the high alpine galls in the
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Bulgarian mountains vs,s undertaken. 't~ithin a matter of only a few years,
the crossing of almost all the high mountain aretes was accoanplished. In
addition to these accomplishments, amass interest in alpinism developed.
The popularization of alpinism in Bulgaria vas seen as an.important
task by the alpine groups connected with the voluntary sports organiza-
tions. Alpinism was made a recognized category in the overall republican
sports classifications, and use vas made of the experience of the Soviet
alpine school. The regulations imposed by the ERSK ~d3nna republikanska
sportna klasifikatsiya -- Standard Republican Sports Classifications,
are such as to erasure the maximum of safety during the period when alpinists
axe attempting to qualify as such. This facilitates a gradual transition
(roan the easiest exercises, which are trips, crossings and climbs, to the
most difficult and coanplex alpine maneuvers in a progression commensurate
with the experience and accomplishment of the climber. These classifica-
tions have been made the basis of qualification for the various categories
of climbs, depending on the difficulty of access to the various Bulgarian
alpine sites. The difficulty of high mountain arete crossings and
ascents of peaks has been established on the basis of the obstacles
encountered in executing the maneuver. The ERSK has rigid requirements
for and insists upon strict observance of a detezmined progression
frown eas~J to difgicult undertal~ings .
Alpinism involves a wade range of mountain activities. The routes
by which a peak can be attained ase always varied and numerous. Tl~e ,
mastery of alpine techniques, a kaloWiedge of the various routes and an
understanding of geographical and geological, as well~as marry other kinds
of background information,-are the conditioa~s Which assure a mountaineer
of victory over his superior opponent -nature and its veri+e:d forces.
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~;cell,exit conditions exist in ~garia for the uevel~nt of
a7.pinism. The high mountain era]-7~ to be climbed and the ice-covered
high mountains axetes provide excellent oppo~unities for the practice
of alpinism? Such activities are attracting more end more peoplE= to
mountaineering. The attaix~+ent of the high mountain peaks ~an~ an
~provemerrt on our present knowledge of the mountain areas of ~$~
which include alpine ~ra7-1g - The selection of routes for the clinbin8
of such calls is a d3.f`Picult proposition. A proper selection and study
of the route a.I.ong a watJ_ to be climbed contributes greatly to the
succesaYu7_ accozuPlishment of the underta~in8?
This book, 'which is based on the requirements and reguY.atiors of
the ERSK, has been Nritten for the purpose of aiding alpinists under-
taking the ascent of Bulgaxian. alpine ways . I have tried to provide
an exact descritition of the vario3's first spec3$1 high mauntain ski base.
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The most convenient settlement from which trips to the Mal'ovitsa
sector can be begun is Govedartsi vill,age, located in the picturesque
Sskur v~~.lley. It is. a t~ra and a. half hour trip f'rwn Govedsrtsi to the
"Sar~ol~ovska Koauna" tourist hut. It is then a several hours' journey to
the alpine sites of the Ma1.'ovitsa sector. The t`Strashnota Ezero" alpine
shelter can be reached in four and a half hours via the valley of the
Prekite rivers. Prt~n Govedartsi village to the "Mal'ovitsa" tourist
but via the Qvnarsko or Gyulechitsa sites it takes five hours.
The best starting paint for trips in the southern part of the
Mal'ov.~+sa sector is the RiI.a i+~.onastery, which is itself' in this sector.
The beautiflzl. Partizr~xnska meadotarr can be reached in a~ hour's walk froet.
the monastery. This meadow contains the.Pa~c-tizanski shelter (125a ~),
which i~ a convenient base for climbs along Dvug7.av, Iglata and
Dyav~olsk3. Igli Peaks . ~ wa1~.s of these peaks cen be reached in two
to three hours from this shelter.
The '`Ivan gazov" tourist but is a great convenience for hikers
and climbers ~.u this mountain sector.
The northern wa.~.ls of FiP~.'ovitsa, Orlovets and Kaa~ilata Feaks;
the noz~thwestern wa11s of the K~xpenite, Zliya Zub, gfa~sa l~fa7.yovitsa,
and Orleto Peaks; the southeastern walls of Zliya Zub, Elenin, and
Ushite leaks; the southern slopes of D~wglavjya and Dyavolski Igli Peaks;
and the_ southern arEte of Igl.ata. Pew are the best knoFm. a?p3.ne sites
in the entire Rila Idounta3:n range, Scene of these, for example the
northern wail of Mal'ovitsa Peak and the southeastern wail of Zliya Zub
Peak, are comparable in difficulty to the great world 3tnown alpine sites
outside ~garia. Althasxgh the mountain walls in t~ ~ia1.' ovitsa sector
are not too high, most of them are.quite difficult to aegatiate and
require gz~t master3r of techniciues~ on the part of the climber.
25
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The rocky Petlite state, which links Elenin and Orlovets?Peaks;
the ri~3e bet~reen Zliya Zub Peak and the Lopushki. Peaks; the Prekite
river cirques and those of the rial'ovitsa and Urdina Rivers; and the
ciresues of the neighboring Sede~ate Rilski La~tes are interesting sites
for winter a'1~,iinism.
Asal.'ovitsa {2730 m) is the highest peak in the birzl.'ovitsa sector
of the Northvrest Rila a3ountei.n region. It r3.ses proudly i`ram the
Mal.'ovitsa valley Land d,~inrates the auaila. ridge east of` Do3ov Peak.
It can be reached via the ~ds1.' avitsa valley. As one enters
the may, and especially aP~er the I~fechg neadow is reached, 2iala
2?a1.' ovitsa becotaes increasingly clearly visible. Behind it rises
Orleta Peak, arm to the right, above the Mal.*ovishki Tstlras, Ma1.'avitsa
Peak suds incposing and grandiose. It is shaped like twin hf~ystacks.
The 3Q0 loot pyrmuid shaped perpendicular northeastern. wa.Ll arrests
the eye. It is called Triugulnika, and ifs the i'irst perpendicular
rack face on the peak. 's'he e3:t3tern stets off' the wall slopes oi'3`,
and together with Orleto and Fiala MaZ'ovitsa Peaks, fon~s a pass.
Beyond this pass rand belot~ the ea~terra.? slope of A~ial.'QVitsa Peak lie the
'heautittsl. Elex~ni Leaks . '.i'o the south, the main ridgy separates Mal' Quits a
Peak from the Elenin Pezak, and. the westezu slopes descend to form a
flat ridge separating the Mala Urdina River cirque f'rara the beginni~~ of
the tlchovc ravine .
The origin of the name P~7,' ovitsa, hats never been established. Soaue
link it with the 2dalite {Dial' ovishki } Lakes which lie in a terrace.
farmatian beneath the nori~eaattrn till oY fair peak. Others believe.
that the taut of this Wane 3.s the turkish word "a$aal.~" which. tisane "gmperty,"
since so mom' of the names- of R31tt. i~'o~tain f~i~.xs rare of Turkifsh origin.
26
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Gyulechitsa, Zekiritsa, Zavrachitsa, etc. axe ex~rpl,es. The explaxw.tics'
given by the local. population, Y:~ieh is hosed on the following lsegend,
is presumably the most accurate eceoimt oi' 'the r~-v~tion oi' the ~rord
avd.il.able:
"?)n the mute to Ovnarsko stands the ~iokro I~ivage site, at the point
where the hz.ahwsyy enters the Pine forest-. The I~pw~hku River runs through
thin. site. ~eaac the river traces of the ancient Nadarltsa settlement can
sti.L"!. be seen. This comnun3.ty was cruelly exploited during the fifteenth
ceatury by the Turkish enslavers, who i'oxced the citizens to forge axon
implements in the soca11e3. madam, or forges. During the dszy, all of
the villagers were taken away to ~roxk, but without eampensetian. Only
the Feeble old wc~n z~exe ~.ef t in the village to go i'raa house to house
sand rock the crad]~es of the t~rai3.ing infants ... 4r~e oi' the village
yrnaths, wha-~.a believ+ed to have been a descendant of an au~tent family
of Bulgarlau feudal lords, and wha ;ras naased Meil.'o, began to terrorize
the Turks and. to avenge the S inflicted upon the pesSantM of his
villagc . Fear ai-cer year tixe enslavere in constant fear because oi' hen.
For maxty years they pursued h3,m, but he alts managed to find refuge
in the deep and. little known valley below the village, ptxt one dark da,F,
the Turks succeeded at long last in surprising hint in hia hideout in the
depths Qf the ~v'a.'~.'+.ey, and they k~ed. him." Thos there is a link be-t:t~een
the brave Dutgar3.en valley rebel and the name of the peak which rises at
the end oi' it, after the "i~l~rnritsa" tourist but ~~ss built, the ~un3.per
surrounding the site was cut down. During the course of this work, e
huge pine tree wh3.ch had. decorated the spot was altst~ cut pmt and a
grave was discovered in the roots o3 this -tree.. ~~ it t1~e, well.
presarved ~skcleton of ~z lszrge- nan waa z+cmraved. Aroamd tl~ waist of this
skeleton wed texts ~ a t~.de leatiu~ belt with coppar orn~nerntativn.
0n the basis-- of 'the' above Legend it is believed that this vas the gra~r+e
of the rebel Mal. `o.
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This legend 3s also supported by the a1d and little known fo]~s
song which speaks of the peorple's atrugBl-e sgai~t the Turks. It speaks
of the rebel 1`~Ia~.' o, and ~ now sung only in tho va11eY of the Iskur Rivei`s
and in Bell Iskur vill-sga?
The peak is usually reached by means of the upper terrace, Which in
turn car. be attained by folloKing 'the upper Park=of the Mal.' ovitsa River
bed. This upper terrace stands at the foot of the valley, and is referred
to by the mAUntaineers of the region as simply the "Upper Terrace."
Above it, the route passes iJo the rigkit of the ?l~nn3. Lakes, and then
.~-~. to the ma_3.x~ ridge on which F~ial.'ovitsa Peak rises. Elenin Peak
bvuaus
lies to the south. Thin route circvnveneg Mala Mal'ovitsa Peak easy
and pleasant as well a,s almost devoid of risk. The route fo11-ows
pyramids]. markers Nhich indicate an othercrise indistinguishable foot-
path windin8 in and out among huge outcroppings of rock and stone heaps.
The peak is even more easily accessible from the Western si~? The
reute there leads over the grass covered slopes of the peak. Other routes
lead upward from the lower terrace ('`Dolnata 3~rasa") of t~ Mme? 'ovitsa
valley and emerge on the vast, grass covered Mal'ovio field. This field
can also be reached via the Za;eshka footpath, which passes beneath
Kukla.'ta Pas?: nest o4 the "Z~Sa1' ovista" tourist but , From the Mal.' ovo
field-~the route leads to the three ~~ial.'~s~- Lakes, wh3.le atother path
leads around them. Higher up the route follofts the large rock outcroppings
below the northeastern wall_ of 'the peak, eu~rging in 'the ~-' ovishki Pass
v3.a the steep couloir between the ~ra1_l. and 'the smral.;L Orleto Perak which
rises on the-left. From the pass the ~c~t is made via the eastern
Qrsss covered arete of the northeastern wall-? Frain the pe$k at the
Triugulnika site, the route folloWo the,~eg~d and rocky axete to the
s~munit .
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The northern side of this pea;~s is the most difficult to climb.
It can be mastered only with alpine techniques and ecrzi~ent.
The Ma.1.'ovitsa Peak towers like a wall.. over the watershed ridge
between the Mal.'ovitsa and Male iJrdina Rivers on the north. It is
Separated from Orleto and Male Ma7.'ovltsa Peaks on the east by the
Mal'ovishki Pass, and on the west it slopes off to the ~ratershed between
the Malta Urdina and the Oehova Rivers ?
The northern wa1.l of this Peak is divided by the Mal'ovishki
corridor into two spurs -the western wing and the eastern wing.
The Western Wing of the. Northern Wall of Mal'ovitsa Peak
The wing starts about 70 m above the eastern wing, rising from the
valley of the 141a1a ~(Gorna) Urdina River. It is aonposed of lo~cr,
perpendicular walls interrupted in sore please by brass covered
stretches , It extends to the swzzu~it of the peak ? On the left it
touches the Ma7.'ovishki corridor, and on the right the t~restern arete
of the northern wa,11., which extends froze the surroz~it of the peak to the
western .grass covered slope with which it merges. This part of the wall
is 20U to 2S0 m high. Its upper end merges with the high, grass covered
areas on top of I?ial'ovltsa Peak, The rock is granite, and it is covered
with moss and lichen.
The first ascent of Mal.'ovitsa Peak via the western wing of the.
northern s~ia:ll. was attempted in the st~.er of 193 by the follot~ing RAK
members: Aieritorious i~iaster of Sports Aleksandur Belkovski, Dr. Lyuben
Telchesov, - Dr. Lyuben Pelev, a3td Zhivko Kzaev. Hotirever, intezr__ ~.~.,: y~,'...~.SIG.Ty'7r'"`.Y.z~r;?-a''Y,~`c~?':,c~a-~ _ ".r"~; :~'t r~ ..r;~6x:i ~42~exti-~-r~rs~'. %r `.;c.Er~~.-`~:v;':-fit '' ~.~{~.S =?..r? _
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is facilitated by a rope ladder. This brings one out on a short, very steep
patch covered with juniper. Above it there is a rock balcony similar to
the one below, but there bare no crgportunities for belaying safety ropes
here. Irrom this point a crack in the rock about 8 m long leads upward.
It provides good handholds. Tt is also wide enough to accommodate a
man's foot, and it can be climbed by digging in with the heel of the boot.
It has a good rough right hand side which provides good hand grips.
Thus by bracing the heel $gainst the one side, and gripping the right
hand, rough side of the x~ocJsy crack one can successfu7.I,y, if Frith difi'i-
culty, emerge at the clumb of juniper to the east of and below the large
3uniper covered terrace called the "Stroitel" site. At this clump of
juniper the temu should be sondoliduted, for which purpose it is con-
venient, zs well as for belaying safety ropes,
'f`rom this point there is a very easy and almost horiscontaZ traverse
to be crnsseci.. Along the left hand part of it, between the juniper clump
and the rocky southeastern nassazges beneath the large terrace, one rope's
length takes one to the "Stroitel" $ite (~-),see illustration opposite
page 88, or1.g.~, which is a 3LU~.per covered terrace. One can reach
this point in 6 rope lengths frith all climbers in full, view of each other.
The terrace on which the "Stroitel" site is found is located at the
center of the southern wall. on its eFastern and roc~gr arete. On the east
the terrace ends at the perpendicular eastern wall of'Dvugl.av Peak which
slopes aff steeply to the precipice above the I~yavolskiya ravine. On
the west the terrace merges into a broad rocky crevice composed of rocky
and grassy patches and monolithic slabs and leads toward the western side
of the southern wall of the peak. leis large, sloped terrace is covered
with juniper and is convenient for asaping: since thejuniper can serve
as fuel, and there is room for a group of men to spend a safe, tranquil
-. 10~ ..
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night. ~~ this terrace the vaLVey of the Rilska River oan be seen.
In the Foreground is the P$rtiza~rsks. meedo~r and the high~ray 1i nk~, the
T,leadoW `tit21 the Riles. 2Sonastery, $nd beyond it, the peaks Of 'the south-
western and central. Riles Mountains.
the "DiEgonala" vari8tion. Above the large and steeply sloped grass
covered ledge (2} beneath the clearly visible large black spot, one can
continue diagonally to the Lest, traversing the loner eaatera part og the
southern trail. in the direction of a short, rocky arete onthe left of the
large terrace on which the "gtroitels` site is located (~). ~i-s traverse
is effected over steep, grassy stretches Srhich are intersected in places
by steeply inclined patches oY rock slabs. his diEgonsl. traverse can
conveniently be crossed by teams oY 2 alpinists, since there are no
platYor~s to be indicated gor fh?
moo; ;.'won oY zi3+ce party, T'ne
c is the hall Ere alnost entire7,3r concealed, and the handholds
are concave. Four rape lengths Stith 3 'moo iF pitons gor each of them lead
Ecross the traverse to the foot of e. ? 0 ~ chiz?mey to the r;...gk~t og the
short, zoc?~r arete on the left side of the large terrace ire the
"Stroitel~ si#.e is gonad. axe upper part of the chil~7.e~,~ caatains a
~1 't Overhang. It can be cli*~bed with 1 or 2 pitons, which Ere used to
assist in the ascent of the cc~paratively di~"Yic~zlt ov's,rh~. Above the
oFerhR~ one e;,.~*ergeS i7z 8 gY'FSSy, ?pCadusl?~'j incli7~d crevice trhich cen
he c~ i ~~. oIi m 1:TDe . At s ~ mints the e~rt'i._re teas CE21. B~Ce
sii3.LLttt1~? 1hiS Cl~v'i.Ce leers to i?+~le "S-'~.roitel" CEZip on t'~e IEr,~
'~e3'r~Ce CoPel'ed ttY.th ~tln~.U2r ~~~, ~h1c~.? ends 8t the E:ESte2'!1 F~'te OI'
'~ SlS? ~.
Ab048 t~'liS point, the 48Ti8t;1371 Co~ t0 t}~G l.ef`t o~ the "Strr3i#.~:1"
&ite (~} along a stomp, mice-~.~e chi~ey ~h awes to the Z~`t
( s~+c3i, to the I~ctt oY tYne a-rete ~ the era? 1., t,~ ~'P14chiteR
thiis chivy ore ~ to s steev grassy ~~
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which one negotiates slablike stretches to roach the roc~jr cave (6).
Above thin point, difficult passages lead to the sur~it of the peak.
This variation was developed by this writer and Instructor in. Alpinism
Valentin Filipenko on 18 August 1952?
The central part of the wall lies above the juniper terrace on
which the "Stroitel" site is located. This lies between (~) and (5)
see illustration opposite page 88, orig.. It is the easiest part
to traverse, and by crossing it one reaches the foot of the z~ocky done
3.n which the peak culminates, and which constitutes the upper part of
the wall.
The "Deveti Septemvri" route crosses this central part of the wall
along the eastern and rncl~r azxte . Froca the juniper terrace and the
"Stroitel" site, all team :rurabere c.. r progress simultaneously i'or about
50 or 60 m to the eastern arete of the zeal].. The climb above this point
provides :'cilJ view of the others for each climber, and it crosses easy
passages of solid granite. Three rope lengths lead to the highest part
of the arete. Although this stets is general3,y easy to climb, and a
free line may be used, a piton is useful at se~~eral points. There are
ledges all along the stets where the party may be consolidated and where
belaying points are fond.
Fro3n the end of the eastern ax~te, it is necessary to descend five
or six m to a grass covered saddle which lies between the stets and the
upper dome portion of the wall. Fray the saddle the team can rsove
simultaneously for about 30 m across easy grassy passages. There a
15 m rocky passage is encountered. It is divided length~~rise by a patch
of grass. It can be easily climbed to reach steep, grassy passes (5)
which become a large grassy traverse which cxtendg around the entire upper
part of the wa11 beneath the x~aeky dome in which the wa.LL ends. The cen-
tral portion of the wa7.7. ends with this traverse .
107
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A large, rocky cave (() see illut~tration opposite page $8, orig.]
is to be found in the center of the large grassy traverse which encircles
'the upper part of the wa~.l. It is a, convenient shelter in inclement
weather. It contains the box Frith the book in. which the ascents made are
recorded.
The climb o~ the upper, dowel; t-p p~ o~ ~a w~ ~ ~e Prom this
point by i'ollowing the final portion of the "Kaminite" route or the
"Zdravets" or "Diagonals" variations which have also been described.
The "Deveti Septemvx'i" mute is about 23 rope lengths long, Climbers
have (1x11 view of path other during the ascent. About 8 pitons end as
~y s~P rings are needed. Two sma11 rope ladders and an auxiliary
rope should also be carried. The ascent can be made by teams of three
alpinists, but a team of two persons is recoamended. The ascent via
~~ mute takes ~ to 5 hours .
The "Deveti Septemvri" route is the most difficult one along -the
southern ~ru.1.1 of Ih-ugl,av Peak, although easy Passages Predominate. It
is an.1,y' beneath the juniper terrace where the "Stroitel" sate ie located,
and in the middle of the upper central portion of the wall that there
are short Passages difficult enough to require auxiliary equipment_
Because of the peculiarities of this route, and becaaxse the
difficult stretches lie 3.n the center and upper parts of this wall,
this route demands endurance, excellent experience alxd q~,ek thinking
during the club. The "I?eveti geptemvri" route is classified 5 A in
difficulty.
The most convenient starting point for ascents via the "Deveti
Septemvri" route is the Parti2aaska meadow, ~~ hours wa3.k stray, F~
the "Ma1'ovitsa" tourist but to the point where the mute begins it
is 3 hours walk via t~_ "Kha7.kata" (Prozoretsa) rock, the pass between
108
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Zliya Zub and Orlovets Peaks, and the
rocky arete which 13 nlss Zliya Zub
Peak and Dyugl$v Peak. Fz'om this point one must descent to the Dyayolskiya
~~, wire, after an hour's hike, one reaches the beginning of the route.
~e "Republican Alpine Competition II" Rouge ( ~ Th~,$ mu.~ leads
+~- ~
onto the southern tra,1,1, of Dvug~,v Peak from the
Bya'v~olskiya ravine by mesas
of the steep grass passages on the eastern part oi'the peak. free or
four rope lengths across these easily climbed stretches lead to -~
"Stroitel" sate (4), From this point oxae contimies alo the "
n8 Deveti
Septemvri" route.
ne "II Republican Alpine CcgttPetition" route was Laid out on 25
October 1952, when a group of 2I alpinists part3ciPating in the alpine
earnpetition made a mdse ascent of the southern watt, of the peak under
the leadership of Senior Instructor and Master of Sgo~~$ Encho Petkov
and under the guidance of Senior Instructors I~risto Borisov and Vladimir
Toshkov. The ascent Yeas made in l2 hours (from 9 A,M. to g P.M.~under
fav'~.able atmospheric condi.tionr3. .cn5.s route shot'cens the ascent of the
~ra11 considerably. Tt follows the easiest passages to be found. This
route is 15 to l6 rope lengths long. It can be climbed with fut7. view of
each other by ~. cumbers . Five to 6 pitons and as many snap rings a~
necessary. It can conveniently be climbed by teams of 2 or 3 alpinists.
The ascent takes about 2 hours.
Easy P~s~es predca~ninate over the entire length of the route, for
Which reason it is c1-ossified 3 B is difficulty.
The most convenient Starting point for tie ascent via the "II
Republican Alpine Competition" xaute is the Partizas~.ska meadow. The
beg't_.., n~ of th'Ls route Lies three hours' hike f~ -~ ?'~g~, ~ ovitss"
tourist hut, ? from which one can approach, y,ja .~ pass between Zliya Zub
-log -
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and Orlovets Peaks sad the "Khalkata" rock to emerge ~ }~ Dyavolskiya
ravine. Descending into this ravine and continuing a3.ong it, one arrives
at the foot of the route. A camp can be set up at the foot of the wall.
From the southern wail. of Dvuglav Peak one ean.see the valley of
the Rilska Riser, the Brichebor site, and the Cherney, Baba, Dubrava,
Tsarev, Yosifits$, and Vodniya Chat (Suchal) Peaks. rand the Pirin
2riountains in the distance, along with the other Macedonian mountains.
To the ea3t the Skakavtsite chain, and beyond them Stalin and the
Bliznatsite Peace, Marichinchal peak and others can be seen.
The Arete Link Zli~ra Zub artd DvugI.av Peaks
Dvu~.av Peak is a typical alpine peak. Apart from the southern
waL1., there is another aspect of interest to P.lpinists -- the rocky
arete ~,rhich links Zliya Zub and Dvuglav peaks, On the western side of
this arete lies the precipice overhanging the Siniya re,~~ ~d ~u the
eastern Hide, the Dyavolsiya ravine, >i'requently it is difficult to
traverse this axete. Alpinists must be extremely familiar with it, as
it is the only route to the "Mal'ovitsa" tou+~3.at but.
The southern wall of Dvug].av Peak mist be left by crossing the
western grassy slope of the peak (the lower, smn.L'ler dame). One con-
times fr+am this point along the arete, which begins with the sum~it
(this is the reeo~nended route). The climb can also be made ixt a
diagonal. line toward the rocky arete a,s far as the rocl; heap made up
of stones of various sizes which runs down perpendictilar to the arete
toirard the Siniya ravine, Tn traversing this rock heap one comes to the
arete, i.e.,., one passes bet~reen the lower 2nd upper, or the large and
small dames, respectively, of Dvuglav Peak. One continues to the north
along the Crete by means of climb3.ng the upper (larger) dome (about 2
rape lengfrhs) and then descending about 1~ tr3 20 m, leaving the arete and
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continuing along the western, grad~;taL'~y inclined ~r rassy slope (about 2 m
below the arete). One then encounters several steep grass and rock
crevices leading downward toward the Siniya ravine. Here one fbllows
the rocky state again, and after 2 rape lengths shifts to the grassy
northern slope where there is a convenient footpath. One follows this
path?:to the beginning of the Dyrav~olskiya ravine. At this point there
are 3 possible moans oP access to the Sin3.ya. ravine, from which one
can continue to the "1~3ts7.' ov3tsa" tourist hut.
1. The first convenient pass, through the "Khalkata" rock, may
be used. When it 3s foggy, orientation is best maintained by fo].],o~ring
the fold formed by the arete?of the Dyavolskite Igli Peak and Sts-side.
Along this Fold (a grass covered crevices one rinds his gray tv the pass,
Pram which it is passible to descend into the Siniya ravine.
2. Once on the side of the Dyavolskite Tgli. Peak, one can traverse
~ohis sloes s ; f~ as ire "~inalkata'` z~ock (this s~.de is perpendicular to
the arete ~ . t~ia can be effected by going -through the "Kha]icata" itself,
but it is recommended that the climber keep to the right of this rock,
following the easy rocl~,y groove several. meters long which leads to a
very snaL1 pass frcm~ which there is access 'to the Siniya ravine.
In either case {i,e., 1 or 2) one reaches the pass between Zliya
Zub Peak and Orlovets Peak after t1, cl3.~ub of 50 m diagonal.'ly along the
Sin3,ya ravine.
3, '1'1~ie third possibility is to follow a diagonal route to the
north of the "Khalkata'' rock, starting from the small pass in the
foothills of Zl3tiya Zub Feak, ~rhich can easi?.y be Found even ~ poor
weather, to continue past the series of ~k formations and thus to
x~ach Zl1,ya Zub Peak. {vita route is not recorm~aded in poor weather
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or if the area is icy.) Fro?n this sma11, pass, one can, via the
southern wall of Zliya Zub Peak, reach the larger pass between Zliya
Zub Peak and Orloveta Peak.
It should be noted that once the "Khalkata" rock has been passed,
there is below it and to the 3c''1.ght, about 15 to 20 m away, a small cave
in the rock~? which is a convenient shelter in poor weather. Tts opening
is about 2 to 2~ m wide and ~ m high. Inside the cszve rises to a
height of 12 n. It is a convenient temporary shelter irf case of summer
rain. In winter it is often filled wLth snaw.
In poor weather (fog, heavy snaw or thick ice coetings~ it is
recos~nended that the arete itself be followed to reach Zliya Zub Peak
frost Dvuglav Peak.
It'rom the pass separating Zliya Zub and Orlovets Peaks, one can
folla~?r the ravine between them downward. to the B.9IC tourist hut, and
thence to 'tote "Maa'ovitsa" tour3.at hut.
S to i~eak
_~___--~
This is the name given to the sma~.l, rocky peak located to the south-
west of IY,rct$l.av Peak. Tt is linked to the larger peak by a smaL1 pass .
St was ,given this name because of its Q.xceptional. sharpness ,~" iglata"
in? Bulgarian means "the needle" J. Its perpendicular and inaccessible
walls drop off slab like to the west in the direction of the 8iniya ravine,
and. an the east to~?~ard the ravine between Iglata and DYUglav Peeks. The
southern wall. of Iglate Peak is a naxrow, rocky arete which is much
divided in sone places. Zt is about ~r38 m long and it rises proudly
shove the pine forests surrounding the Pa~rtizanska meadox. The westzrn
part of the wa~.7. is a far shorter rocky stets which is linked with
Dwglav Peak by means of a smaL1 pass ,
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Iglata Peak (2575 n) and Zliya Zub Peak (2650 m) are the only
peaks 3.n Sulu ts~ which a~L`.E'ss ca~snot : e ~ai~d ix~ ~. sales, and
which absolutely require the application of alpine techniques for the
ascent. Iglata Peak eroused tha interest of the earliest Bulgarian
mountaineers because of its inaccessibility.
On 25 May 1935 BAK members Al.eksandur Belkovski, Meritorious
2~ter of Sports, and Semi Atashekh made the first ascent of Tglata
Peak, They made their clit~b along the northern, and most accessible,
arete, They descended en rappel along the southwestern slo~ae of
DvugT.av Peak, as far as the saddle (~) ,~no such symbol to be found
in illustration which ~! ink!a this peek and IgZ.ata Peak. They then
climbed the short northern arete of the peak on a free rope. They
descended via the same route. Altogether the climb took ~ hours, and
wad made under favorable gather ca~nditions.
At the end of June 1936, BP~L members Aleksandur Belkovski,
Meritorious Master of Sports, z~ho was the team leader, L~gineer
Yordan Yordanov and Boris Gonchev climbed the peak via the weBtern
rocky couloir leading urn~ard from the Siniya ravine. Tile scent took
them about 3 hours under fav~or8ble r~.tnospher3.c cond3,tions . Their
descent followed the saddle (between the northwestern arete oc'the peak
and DvugZav Feak) and along the muloir by which they had made the ascent.
The ~Pirst climb of the southern arete of Iglata Peak was made on
10 September 1954. it eras made by Senior Alpine Instructar~ ~ncho Petkov,
~3asttr of Sports, and Khristo Bor3.sov. They alternated as le~.er. fey
started f?^aun their camp ba3.ow Dvug7.av Peak early in the r3orn3ng. They
began from the 1acw+est pert of the arete at b A.I. in the maxr~jing. The
two young alpinists made. the first ascent of this southern arete is about
? 0 hours . They heal eYCellent ~ospheric cond3.tions for their climb .
-113.,
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`~P fi...rrt dui, ascent via this route was raecle on l7 October 1953
under the leadership and guidance of Master ~ Sgorts ~~ Petkov.
Eight alp3.nists, participating in the ITT Republican Alpine Oo?upetititan,
cl5rtbed the peak in 8 hours under fa:~orable atmospheric conditions.
On 2 August 1951 the ascent via this route was made for the first
time by a. vcmzan ~- DaYina Bosolova., A3.P3~ ?.nstru,ctor at the "Geoxgi
D~mitrovs` VIF'. The other members of the party were Ivan YanaJsiev and
Georgi 8hterev.
~e first winter ascent oi' the southern arete tiros made ~on 25 April
1955 by this irriter rind Instructor Georgi Karbachev.
The Southern Arete of Iglata PeaZc
`i~ae lotrest point on the southern arete of Sgl.ata Peatt be~rias where
the pine forest to the north and above the Partizeaska neado~r ends. ~e
X00 m granite arete rises granc7,iese ~t~~, t~ Sini~a, rrzviue and the
ravine Porxxed by the peak; rind Dvugl.av Peak. The southern as+ete oP
TgZa~:a Peak i$ composed of solid, large grained granite wh~h is mixed
with porphyric granite. There are grassy patches on Sts lower portion,
and the upgex part is monolithic granite covered with lichen and moss,
The 'upperiaost part of T~ata Feats is co~[posed o~ bi?t3te r~chists.
The ate is considered to begin rzt the he3.ght which is on the
name level, as the wall of ~ruglav Peak, The ascent of the arete 3e
begun at this point, and there is no clearly defined xoute. There are
~,Y possible variation& leading to the 3niddle of the arete ~l} 'see
~ ~ zst..ratica be ~~es~. pages g6 acrid 97, orig,~'~ ~d from that point the
summit 3s .reached along the s?uthea~a arete. The center ~ the arete
(1} can be reached from the Siniya ravine or from that formed by Iglata
and ~vugl,av Peaks. Qn -these routes over the slopes a free rope can be
used, as the ascent follows. the g~sy Patches and ledges.
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The center of the southern stets is a large, very convenient
rock and brass covered le
~ which cuts deeply' iato the arete (1).
From this ledge the ascent can on1,y be pursued along theroclgr stets
and.
alpine techniques must be used.
The stets begins with monolithic 8ranite passages (covered with
lichen and moss) where there are serous solid cracks and p~~ections
which are secux,e and can serve as h~dgrips. The moderate incline oP
the axete Leads, if 3 or ~ pitons are used~a a rock and grass pass
10 odd me-tern long to the left of the ~
stets. This passage can easily
be traversed. One full 30 m xape's length farther on, one encounters
a broad, brassy platform which is a convenient belaying and assenb
Point. Z,Y
mere a~ 3 Possible routes for continuing the assent; ~. -_ One
can climb a 15 n chimney to the left n~ thy. a':?~ which is mast
PerPenc3~.cular, read is very anger!-ar; 2 -- one may ascend vta the mete
itself, which is intersected by a 10 m rocky crevice trhieh is inclined
to the le#`t; or 3 -- one can climb the right side of the stele. ~
a3.1 these cases, 3 to ~ pitons are useful in climbing the easy and
solid rocky passages which are
cLi.Pf3.cult in A few places, Ore emerges
agai~a on the stele, where these 3 vt~.riations of the route x'e~join.
Above this poiszt, one continues for 10 m on a free rope to reach a
a'?c~ ledge (2) "see illustration beti~en pages g6 and g7, orig.
which is convenient for beta- "~
:r ~g safety robes and for assembling the
Ply ? It is covered frith ,juniper, and lies to the left of the ax+ete .
Above this point lies the most d~ficult
Pant of the ascent. O~
continues along the stele, but mast fallow the broad, s~.id bz'anite
crevice which runs along the left side o? the stele. This crevice ang3.es
to theleft. A convenient aaSw-as crack in the crevice facil3.tates the
-ll5_
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ascent_ Here the climbing must 'be done with the aid of the hands, using
first one and then the other for support. ~e first 20 m of the crevice
can be covered t~ith 6 or 7 pitons. One then encounters au ovsrliaug
of average size to the right oi' the crevice. One can emerge on the
right of the state by negotiating this easy overhang. Climbers are
advised to continwe smother 10 m along the crevice on a free rope in
order to rs:ach a horizontal rocky ledge located to the left of the
arete (3~ Caee illustration between pszges 96 and 97, nriS.Jwhich is
rt wig and 2 m long. It is a very convenient location for bellying
safety lines and assembling the party. There are, however, few cracks
is the rock around the ledge. she use of the horizontal angular
crack between the floor and the gall of theledge is reco~uaen,ded i'or
the purpose of securing the position of the leader. A short horizontal
piton can be driven in here, but it may not be very secure. This 20 m
psasnsi